After 10 hours we arrived at the Nadi, Fiji airport and in no time went through customs. Paul took his luggage to change to another plane, as he was going on to a small island called Taveuni, for scuba diving. Soon a tour guide lady found me a ride to the marina, and the Spirit of the Pacific was waiting for us to board. She was a beautiful 108 Ft. tall ship built in New Zealand about 30 years ago.  After boarding a tall Fijian man said, "May I have your attention"?  He gave us lots of information about the ships layout and said we would be sailing northwest to a group of islands called Yasawa and our first Island stop was called Darawaqa. Then we introduced our selves and put our luggage away. Each night we slept in a native hut called a bure with an ocean view. Now we were in the Southern hemisphere where we could see the Southern Cross in the sky. Later found out that it was really four stars close together that made it so bright. All the passengers were fun and interesting!

I became good friends with a couple named Kate and Geoff from England. Everyday the terrific food was cooked and served by the crew, buffet style and we had vine ripened fruit. Each day we sailed, swam, snorkeled, and took walks through the jungle paths. The last night we had a native style lovo feast, cooked underground. Part of the ceremony was for us all to wear native dresses called sulu's (which were wrap around skirts). Next we had a talent contest with everyone from different parts of the world performing. After words we danced while the Fiji men played their guitars and sang beautifully. In the morning we visited the village around the island and the chief greeted us with a Kava ceremony, as was their custom. Kava is a drink made from powered pepper roots and mixed with water, then drank from half of a coconut shell as it was passed around to everyone. Luckily we all had good germs.

 Afterwards a wonderful musical program was presented and then they showed their crafts, which we could buy. Every day we had so much fun but the next day came and it was time to sail back to the main island. It was hard saying goodbye to my new friends but there were other places to visit.
Later in the afternoon we arrived at the Marina and I continued on to a backpackers hotel. Next day I met Jane at the airport and we went on to Taveuni Island to met Paul, who was scuba diving. From the airport we took a limo on a terrible constructing road to Susie's plantation, on the other end of the island.  It looks like a Martian! No, it was Paul carrying an umbrella and a net over him, and he was already sunburn and bug bit. Taveuni the garden Island seemed to have the most insects because it has so much more fruit and flowers. Each day we went snorkeling, scuba diving, and horse back riding between rains. One night there was a dinner party with Kava drinking, beautiful music and singing. 

Sera our friendly housekeeper, invited us to her home on Qamea Island. We agreed to go with her on her three days off work.  Now we were back again on that hell road, crawling for two hours.  Half way we stopped for supplies to take to Sera's Island. Hours later we finely arrived at the boat area to go to Sera's home.  Luckily, Sera's uncle was waiting and soon he motored us to her Island. On approaching the village we saw a mangoes swamp in front of us, everything was green from their summer rainy season, but there was no sandy beach.  We carried our luggage and shoes while wading through the mud, to get to shore. Shortly we saw her home on a hillside. The whole town, including her 80-year-old mother, came to greet us and all were friends or relatives. They lived in a three-bedroom cottage that had a tin roof. Sera gave me a bedroom to myself and Paul got a bed in the living room and we both had nets over them. Later we had tea and the hot water was brought in from the outdoor wood fireplace. That's when I noticed they hadn't any appliances, electrify or plumbing!  Then found out how well they managed because they shared everything and had a communal life. Sera had seven children and the youngest was 15 years old.  She had been a widow for 10 years and had pictures on her wall of her late husband, who she still missed. 

 Before long the children -in all sizes-drifted in as Paul had a big bag of suckers and each got one, and the word got around. Soon they were singing us beautiful songs that they had learned from school and church.  What a happy gang they were, all bright, healthy and clean.

That afternoon Paul went to a men's kava party to get acquainted with the village Chief, to get his blessing, and meet the others.  After a delicious dinner served on a tablecloth on the floor we found out there would be a kava party, later for the women. After the younger children fell asleep the women slowly came to the cottage. Next they lit a lantern and got the kava ready, as was their custom. They asked me questions about my life in the States and I asked them about theirs. They had a good sense of values because Sara told me that they wanted strong blood and that's why they didn't marry close relatives.  It was fun making new friends and I enjoyed the music and singing too.

Again it was raining the next day but we decided to go to the sandy beach anyway. In a couple of hours we were loaded up and ready for the boat trip, about ten miles away.  I thought there might be six of us, but no they're ended being around fifteen people and five kids. We had a time enjoying the beach, exploring a new area and gathering lots of food.  The children played, climbed coconut trees and jumped or dived in the water all day.  In the afternoon the ladies all helped get a good meal ready. Paul and the men caught lots of fish and we had at least thirty extra cleaned by Sara and ready to bring home to her neighbors. Everyone knew their job and helped get things ready to come back. The kids were so tired, and quite as we motored back. 
They had a great free life and were rarely scolded. Their only toy seemed to be a pet chicken that came in every night and was put to bed in a cardboard box with windows cut in it so she could breath. 

Next day, more friends stopped to visit, while Sara kept busy making flower necklaces for the children's school program. The men went out to another fishing area and Paul caught the biggest fish, a big lobster and he said, "I'm the great hunter," so we laughed at him. Now it was time to return to Taveuni again and on the boat it was storming all the way.  We stopped at the airport so I could go to Nadi again and avoided that hell road to Susie's plantation. We said goodbye and I promised to write and send some clothes to the children.

 All the way back to Nadi I kept thinking how simple their life was, - they didn't need repair men fixing everything- they had all the basics good food, land, family and friends.  The island reminded me of "The Garden of Eden!"  That alone was a good reason for the trip.

 After stopping for the night at the backpackers place I decided to continue on around the main island because I heard about Leleuvia being a friendly island.  First I needed to stop at the modern capital city of Suva and from their get a boat that went to Leleuvia. A few months earlier there had been a coup there but things were quiet now. Leleuvia was a very small quiet place and because of the coup worries business was slow, so I got a cottage to myself. I met a nice old dog called Beebee and soon she was following me around. We both thought Leleuvia was a great place to retire. As usual the native people had kava parties at night and invited me to listen to their beautiful music, and they gave me a tape, and many beautiful shells. 

They are fun loving, happy people. By now I noticed that they weren't bothered much by the insects and sun and guessed their dark skin gave them protection. Everyday more rain and storms came but we still managed to go swimming and snorkeling.  After almost a week it was time to head back to the main island. Back at Suva I got to stay at an English Colonial home that had great food. England had been connected with Fiji over 100 years and the people still loved the queen, and had her picture on all their money. Now it was on the road again for me with a stop off at another neat place called The Beachouse that had outdoor sports and good food. The buildings were new, well painted and had wooden covers for the windows.  Another day and I was back at Nadi and ready to come home again. Planned to meet Paul, but my days were mixed up and I ended flying back one day earlier. 

P.S. I've worked hard making changes on this story. Hope it is readable now. Also have many pictures that I will be adding later. Let me know.

Miss Muriel